Art and Architecture

‘Where he promised to return one day to see all that he wanted to’

I don't know if he ever did return, but we've returned again and again

When José Saramago said this of Tavira it was because he had been unable to find anyone to show him round what he wanted to see. Something he complains of quite a bit in his ‘Journal to Portugal‘. telhados-de-quatro-aguasI don’t know if he ever did return as he gave up in the book to visit Luz, but I’m sure that most people who visit Tavira once will like José want to return. It is a very pretty town, albeit it’s reputation as the prettiest town in the Algarve does mean it can get inundated with tourists. Most visiting to walk across the ‘Roman’ bridge (it isn’t really Roman!) and to admire the Tavira roofs. And it is to the roofs that I return today for my November ‘Past meets Present‘.

Nearly every book from our Algarvian library apart from José’s mentions the Tavira roofs, so it was easy to find past photographs. As we are not yet back in the Algarve, however, I have not been able to take a modern shot from quite the same angle. However as you can see I have plenty of similar ones!

They are known locally as ‘Telhados de Quatro Águas’, and once were as common in Faro as they are in Tavira. Much of Faro old district though seems to have disappeared under modern builds and so it is now only Tavira which is known on the tourist routes for its hipped roofs.  What I hadn’t quite realised until today though that each room has its own roof, so even the smallest of buildings will have multiple roofs. Next time you are up on the castle walls why not work out how many rooms each house has by the number of roofs! Some look ‘oriental’ with their pagoda finish, whilst others with balustrades look very grand.

Not only are these structures a stunning feature of Tavira but they also have a purpose. The Tourism website advises that they enable ‘free air circulation in rooms, making them cooler in summer and warmer in winter by keeping the cold away’. It seems a double-shame therefore that so many of the new builds and renovation projects do not seem to be re-creating them. I guess the complex construction of these roofs is too expensive these days.

I do hope what currently exists still exists in 50 years, and that our photographs of today do not end up as only memories. Talking of which don’t forget to share your Past meets Present collection this month.

21 comments on “‘Where he promised to return one day to see all that he wanted to’

  1. I often read of the masses of tourists and I’m so glad I went in September because it wasn’t like that at all!

    Liked by 1 person

    • Wonderful time to visit . . . . .we are really noticing the tourist numbers increasing now. So whilst we will be sorry to end our winter stay in a few weeks I’ll be glad to escape before the hoards really descend.

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  2. Pingback: Home to devout fishermen and seafarers | It caught my eye in Portugal

  3. Pingback: One of the grandest houses in Tavira | It caught my eye in Portugal

  4. I don’t know if you’d count this as a genuine ‘past meets present’ but my last post for my Mediterraneans series juxtaposes two pictures of Venice – a painting by Canaletto and a current photo of the same building: Venice According to Canaletto: The Doge’s Palace (Then & Now) Hope you like it!

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    • It counts 🙂 Only has to be one modern photograph and a painting for the past is as far as I think just as good if not better than a photograph 🙂
      Great entry

      Liked by 1 person

  5. Our modern estate still pays lip service to the tessoura style. I’d love an original, Becky. There’s one we’ve eyed up for a number of years and the little house is getting increasingly decrepit, but it’s half way up a steep hill and SO impractical. 😦

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  6. Interesting place and with such lovely pictures. Thank you for sharing.

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  7. Ooh, interesting – a roof for every room! Very pretty.

    Liked by 1 person

  8. nigelspeaight1yahoocouk

    Eu adoro Tavira 😊😊

    Liked by 1 person

  9. Beautiful tile roofs! A wonderful post for the Past and Present, Becky.

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  10. I love the tiled roofs.

    Liked by 1 person

    • They are stunning . . . . and so much more interesting that so many roofs you come across in England!

      Liked by 1 person

      • I remember loving the rooftops in Paris in the late 1960’s, especially the chimney pots. I had a romantic little room in a garret with french windows and a railing. My parents lived in an appartment in the same building.

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        • oh wow, I am so so envious of you. Parisian roofs are incredible and to have been able to have lived there for a while.

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        • It was long ago. I was 18 and only stayed for 6 minths. I ran away to come back to NY. I’m still with the guy I eloped to be with, my husband, Marc.

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        • Oh how romantic ☺ albeit thought it was more usual to run away to Paris to marry!!
          Just thinking though the confidence we had when we were 18!

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