Whilst continuing my ongoing search for photographic evidence of our levada walks I came across a couple of shots illustrating life in the north and they got me thinking!
For much of the 19th century Portugal lagged behind western Europe’s industrial revolution and economic growth, and for a huge proportion of the 20th century found itself shut off from most of the world because of the actions and policies of the dictator Salazar. Consequently Portugal began to stand out in Europe as the country with the lowest income, lowest life expectancy. highest illiteracy rates, highest percentage of workers in agricultural work, lowest industrial productivity and the statistics continue.
No wonder so many Portuguese (more than two million) left their home country for new lives on the other side of the Atlantic. Most headed for Brazil, but significant numbers also headed for the United States and other part of Europe.
The exodus began to slow by the late 1980s when life in Portugal began to dramatically improve, thanks to Portugal becoming a member state of the European Union in 1986. One of the noticeable differences, apart from the dramatic improvement in infant mortality rates and a steep rise in tourism, was the advent of ‘highways’ across mainland Portugal and even Madeira. However despite the improvements and the new infrastructure Portugal remains one of the European Union’s least developed Member States. The upside is that much of the countryside remains untarnished by human activity, which is great for the environment and is why we love it. But the downsides are not great, high levels of poverty remain visible throughout all of the Portuguese regions.
As in the UK one of the very visible signs of poverty is the quality of housing, and it really isn’t good in some areas. However because some of the Portuguese rural ones look rather quaint they have of course become a tourist attraction.
Photograph – Lorraine Hawkins, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
These tiny wooded houses consisting of just one or two rooms have been purpose built in Santana on Madeira’s northern coast, specially for tourists. They are based on original housing designs, and were once a regular type of home across the island. These ones though with their perfect reed roofing, colourful front doors and paintwork, and the beautiful gardens however they don’t give a true impression of how hard life would have been like to live in one.
Away from the town in the countryside we did spot one or two traditional homes which looked more lived in and original, and some of you might say that even these look charming from a distance. Well the one closer to us does, I am not sure about the one further up the hill.
However they are probably not as charming to live in full time. Self sufficiency is not easy, and I know I wouldn’t even want to try home working or commuting from here. There is no road, just a long footpath beside a levada to take you to the road, and then a twisty drive to the nearest town. Living here almost certainly means hardships and sacrifices, but for many in Portugal they have no other choice. Romanticising rural life whilst great for the tourists and our photographs, certainly doesn’t improve it, particularly in a world where climate change is making it all that much more difficult. I don’t know what the answer is in a world run on consumerism.
A delightful place!
Becky, we were in the Douro Valley a few years ago and we toured a few ‘farms’ where port is made. I was very pleased that the experience was not ‘romanticized’ and we received a realistic history lesson of the process, including a short walk up the steep hills of a vineyard. Everyone in our group cried ‘uncle’ by step #5 and there were at least 200 more that workers traversed several times per day. Whenever I sip Port, I remember that experience with appreciation. I honestly think the little huts are a clever way to ‘capitalize’ on tourism. But, I can also see how it leaves the wrong impression. Being ‘found’ has both an upside and a downside.
oh you are so right about being found 🙂
and your experience sounds wonderful
Thanks for the history lesson. Terrific photos too. I don’t think I’d like to live in those harsh conditions.
Glad you enjoyed it Cee, and yes I certainly wouldn’t want to live here!!
The village looks like a place out of a story book, and the steps are something
Madeira is an incredible island 🙂
We think everyone lives the same way we do! In some ways these folks might be better off!
ooh yes think you may have a point there
Am I the only person who say “There are big buts…” and wanted to finish the line by saying, “and I cannot lie!” Just me? Oh. Okay. *skulks away into the shadows*
“Saw” not “Say.” Man, I’m having a storm of typos over here. A real Typogeddon going on.
(Was tempted to typo the phrase ‘Typogeddon’ for effect, but decided not to play with fate that way.)
All too easy for the tourist to romanticise rural life…..the reality is hard slog, and poverty
I first went to Northern Portugal in 2009. I drove from Galicia and picked up a motorway and I remember the list of prohibitions on a sign board at the entrance that included a horse and cart.
Yup that sums up Portugal! We still see a few horse and carts around Olhao
Good piece, Becky. It is indeed a world run on consumerism. I know I’m a culprit!
Thanks Mari, and I’m a culprit too! This piece started so differently but I found myself questioning more and more as I typed. Wish I had an answer 😕
Beautiful countryside ! I cannot even imagine what it would be live where the roads do not even take you to your house!
I know it is quite a different way to live.